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Below you will find links to various brands of headphones and the mods I do for them. Also, I usually have some "headphone deals", where I put up complete headphones, amps, prototypes and such.
Headphone stands, wood identification, customs, etc.
I'm often asked "What's in the standard recable?". I use BlackSilver innards for the recable prices listed on each page (dual entry designs). For single entry, I use a variation of BlackSilver that combines the ground channel.
The main runs of the cable I use a softer, almost non micro-phonic sleeving that is stealth black and sturdy enough to be used in engine compartments! Some have finally decided to copy me, flattering? Hmm… For both stress relief at the plug and cable type identification, I usually do the following… First six inches of BlackSilver have silver under black sleeving. BlackCopper, six inches Black over Black, BlackMax, gold under black. BlackGold, twelve inches of gold under black. This is a sleeving splice only, not the internals!
What they hopefully don't copy is the internal cables themselves. Most are on the wrong path in this department, probably wondering why their recables are little more than show (or making the cans sound worse than stock). I do get a good laugh out of some of designs I've seen! There is more to modding than meets the eye, with extra tweaks and detail I don't care to divulge and be cloned.
I believe all of my dual entry cables can be upgraded to BlackMax or BlackGold innards (in addition to base price). On most cans I mod, it's tough to go wrong with any of them. Sometimes there are exceptions, but I usually don't mod those cans anyway.
If you invest in a quality cable, treat it as such for long life. Headphile cables should not be bundled, wrapped in a figure eight, wrapped around headphones, twisted over or kinked at right angles. Storage of cable should only be circular, no less than 3-4" circumference. When the cable is shipped to you, it will be in this natural position and should continue to be stored or transported in this way.
I have no intention of producing an AT style finish on wood items, too sterile for my tastes. I generally don't use filler, and some woods have a deeper grain that never sands out. Some woods finish really nice, and still retain that nice old school look. If you want an AT look, buy AT...
The finishes I use are the same as on many finest vintage instruments, thus allowing the wood to allow it's character into the sound. There are subtle differences in the type of wood used as far as sound goes, but it can really depend on which can it's on too. Cocobolo is almost always my top sound choice, but feeling good about the look of your cans also plays a role. You are more likely to enjoy the music if you feel good about your cans, so pick what you like the look of uppermost.
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